Fade Stubborn Dark Spots With These 10 Dermatologist-Approved Melasma Treatments (2024)

Fade Stubborn Dark Spots With These 10 Dermatologist-Approved Melasma Treatments (1)

Treatment for melasma, a hormone-related skin discoloration, comes in many different forms. But, unfortunately, no matter what route you choose, it’s important to know that there is currently no cure for melasma, says Noreen Galaria, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Virginia. The good news is—quality treatment products and sun protection can lighten your dark spots significantly, notes Dr. Galaria.

Finding a melasma treatment that works for you is all about pinning down the active ingredients that your skin responds to best. This can take some trial and error and is best guided by a dermatologist. However, there are some over-the-counter serums, creams, cleansers, and even supplements that have been proven to stand out. To narrow down the best, we asked experts to share their favorites and did our own product research. Then we had a dermatologist from our Medical Expert Board review this article for medical accuracy.

Active Ingredients to Look for in Melasma Treatments

Ava Shamban, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist based in Beverly Hills, California, explains that the best active ingredients for melasma include kojic acid, azelaic acid, vitamin C, and hydroquinone. The latter is available via prescription. Dr. Galaria adds tranexamic acid to that list.

Our Top Picks

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In This Article

  • Active Ingredients to Look for in Melasma Treatments

  • Our Picks

  • How We Selected

  • What is Melasma?

  • What to Look for

  • Our Experts

  • FAQ

  • Why Trust Verywell Health

Pros

  • Highly rated

  • Contains a blend of effective actives

  • Clinically proven to reduce the appearance of dark spots

Cons

  • Pricey

  • May irritate sensitive skin

Key Specs:

Type: Serum | Size: 1 fl. oz. | Active Ingredients: Tranexamic acid, kojic acid, niacinamide

Why We Recommend It

Dr. Shamban recommends this professional-grade serum for fading melasma spots because it delivers multiple pigment-fighting actives in one bottle. It includes tranexamic acid and kojic acid to brighten, niacinamide to even out skin tone, and natural enzymes to exfoliate dead skin.

Brand-conducted clinical studies found participants saw a 60% average improvement in the appearance of stubborn brown patches, and the serum was specially formulated for use in conjunction with professional laser treatments. It’s effective yet gentle enough to apply twice daily with regular sunscreen use.

Keep In Mind

Because this serum contains tranexamic acid, it can irritate sensitive skin. Consult with a dermatologist before incorporating it into your routine.

Pros

  • Contains nourishing hydrators and moisturizers

  • Natural ingredients

  • Contains protective antioxidants

Cons

  • May deliver slower results than stronger products on this list

  • May feel heavy on oily skin types

Key Specs:

Type: Serum | Size: 1.02 fl. oz. | Active Ingredients: Vitamin C, ferulic acid, hyaluronic acid

Why We Recommend It

If you’re in search of a good daytime vitamin C—a crucial skincare step for antioxidant protection against free-radical damage—as well as melasma treatment, this serum will deliver two for one. It earns Dr. Galaria’s seal of approval for its blend of high-quality yet gentle ingredients, including hydrating hyaluronic acid and aloe vera. These nourishing ingredients act as a buffer to the more potentially irritating brighteners of vitamin C and ferulic acid, leaving behind a happy, even glow.

This serum also contains natural soothers like konjac root, chamomile, and clary sage to balance the skin’s pH and further prevent potential irritation. Best of all, it’s under $50, which is a difficult price tag to find in its category of skincare.

Keep In Mind

This product is specifically made for people with sensitive skin, so it may work a bit slower than a more powerful product that could cause irritation.

Pros

  • Less likely to cause irritation

  • Fragrance-free

  • Can be used head to toe

Cons

  • May take longer to deliver noticeable results on its own

  • May be drying for some

Key Specs:

Type: Cleansing bar | Size: 3.2 oz. | Active Ingredients: Kojic acid, azelaic acid, niacinamide

Why We Recommend It

Although a cleanser shouldn’t necessarily be your only line of defense against melasma, it can certainly aid in the consistent and gentle delivery of active ingredients to your skin. Especially if you happen to have dark spots below your neck, this cleansing bar is a great addition to your routine.

Unlike liquid cleansers, this bar is travel-friendly and spill-proof and comes with a sponge for easy lathering and gentle exfoliation. It’s ideal for layering ingredients that are also in your melasma-fighting serums, like kojic acid, azelaic acid, and niacinamide. The brand also notes that it pairs well with powered cleansing devices.

Keep In Mind

A cleanser alone won’t get rid of melasma but can be a helpful supplement to treating it.

Pros

Cons

  • May run out quickly if used day and night

  • Contains fragrance

Key Specs:

Type: Moisturizer| Size: 1 fl. oz. | Active Ingredients: Alpha arbutin, azelaic acid, botanical extracts

Why We Recommend It

Dr. Shamban recommends this nourishing cream for its versatility and potent ingredients. Given its light moisturizer form, it’s very easy to incorporate into any skincare routine. Its active melasma fighters have good concentrations of azelaic acid and alpha arbutin, a form of prescription-grade skin lightener hydroquinone. It also contains calming botanical extracts that combat redness and sensitivity.

The texture is very lightweight, making it appropriate for day and night use and ideal for wearing under makeup.

Keep In Mind

This cream contains fragrance, so if you’re sensitive to fragrance, you may want to opt for another product on this list.

Pros

  • Affordable price point

  • High-concentration formula

  • Fragrance-free

Cons

  • May irritate sensitive skin

  • May pill when layered with other products

Key Specs:

Type: Cream | Size: 1 oz. | Active Ingredients: Azelaic acid

Why We Recommend It

Azaelic acid is a known treatment for acne and melasma, so if you suffer from both, this affordable yet potent cream is worth trying. It contains minimal ingredients (just 10% azelaic acid to get the job done), and it won’t break the bank.

The tube packaging is convenient and hygienic, though we wish it was a little bigger and lasted longer. All in all, there’s little at stake in trying an effective product like this one.

Keep In Mind

To see results from azelaic acid, you’ll need to use it daily. Applying it every so often won’t lead to results. This cream may irritate sensitive skin and it could cause pilling under makeup.

Pros

  • Effective, yet gentle on sensitive skin

  • Clinically proven to deliver results

  • Contains protective antioxidants

Cons

  • Pricey

  • Not widely available

Key Specs:

Type: Serum | Size: 2 oz. | Active Ingredients: phenylethyl resorcinol, tranexamic acid

Why We Recommend It

Dr. Shamban recommends this professional-grade serum. It contains the antioxidant phenylethyl resorcinol, which helps clear discoloration, and melasma heroes tranexamic acid and niacinamide. If you’re looking for a powerful product that doesn’t contain retinol or hydroquinone, this is your pick.

It’s a bit pricey, but the airless pump ensures you can use the product inside (a full 2 ounces!) to the last drop.

Keep In Mind

Most professional-grade serums are only available at select retailers, so you won’t be able to pick up this product at a drug store.

Pros

  • Stable formula

  • Highly concentrated vitamin C

  • Suitable for all skin types

Cons

  • May cause skin to look oily

  • Pricey

Key Specs:

Type: Serum | Size: 1 fl. oz. | Active Ingredients: vitamin C, vitamin E, ferulic acid

Why We Recommend It

If you’ve ever been in the market for a vitamin C serum, you’ve likely heard of this highly praised product. The hype speaks for itself, but it helps that Dr. Shamban also recommends it. That’s because it contains an ultra-high concentration of 15% pure vitamin C to fade dark spots and brighten skin. It also offers vitamin E and ferulic acid to neutralize free-radical damage from environmental pollutants and the sun. In turn, the combo of ingredients reveals smoother, brighter skin over time.

Keep In Mind

This Vitamin C serum has a strong scent, so if you’re sensitive to fragrance, it may not be your best option. It also may cause your skin to appear shiny or oily.

Pros

  • Contains slow-releasing retinol

  • Boosted with niacinamide and hyaluronic acid

  • Safe for sensitive skin

Cons

  • May take longer to see results

  • May cause irritation to first-time retinol users

Key Specs:

Type: Serum | Size: 1 fl. oz. | Active Ingredients: Retinol, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid

Why We Recommend It

Retinol works to treat melasma by speeding up cell turnover so that darker patches of skin are removed and replaced by new, even skin, explains Dr. Galaria. Therefore it may lighten melasma over time. “But it is not really strong enough to treat melasma on its own,” Galaria adds. While prescription-grade retinol (known as tretinoin) may be more effective, this over-the-counter retinol can help fade spots while reducing fine lines.

This serum, in particular, contains pure, gradually-releasing retinol to minimize potential irritation caused by rapid cell turnover. It also contains skin-evening niacinamide (also called vitamin B3) and hydrating hyaluronic acid to buffer sensitivity.

Keep In Mind

If you’re new to using retinol, you may find that your skin is sensitive to it at first. Start using it in small doses and be sure to do a patch test before using it on your face.

Pros

  • High SPF

  • Tinted formula

  • Protects against UV and blue light

Cons

  • May feel heavy on oily skin

  • Only one tint shade

Key Specs:

Type: SPF | Size: 2 fl. oz. | Active Ingredients: Zinc oxide

Why We Recommend It

Dr. Galaria urges everyone to use a good mineral sunscreen to prevent melasma from occurring in the first place. She notes that, of all sunscreen ingredients on the market, you should opt for zinc oxide because it has the broadest ultraviolet coverage. Her go-to is a tinted formula like this one because it also contains iron oxides, which dually protect against blue light damage.

You can use all of the dark spot-correcting products you want, but if you don’t include SPF in your rotation, you can very easily reverse their effects. This formula is a great pick because it also contains hydrating hyaluronic acid and may offer light coverage to even out skin tone.

Keep In Mind

This product won’t work on all skin types, because it only comes in one shade.

Pros

  • May decrease skin’s susceptibility to sun damage

  • Contains skin-loving antioxidants

  • Dermatologist-developed

Cons

  • Does not replace effective skincare or SPF

Key Specs:

Type: Supplement | Size: 60 tablets | Active Ingredients: Polypodium leucotomos

Why We Recommend It

If you want to take extra precautions to ensure sun exposure doesn’t worsen your melasma, Dr. Glaria recommends supplements that contain polypodium leucotomos. She explains that this supplement essentially creates an internal layer of sun protection. Likewise, the pycnogenol ingredient is known to both treat and prevent melasma. She adds that the supplements also contain other antioxidants that are known to help absorb free radical damage.

Keep In Mind

Although these supplements can be an excellent addition to your routine, you still need to use sun protection to prevent melasma and skin cancer.

How We Selected the Best Melasma Treatments

  • We spoke to board-certified dermatologists who explained the various modalities used to treat melasma, over-the-counter and in-office.
  • Our experts shared their favorite products that are accessible for treating melasma.
  • We researched widely acclaimed products for fading hyperpigmentation.
  • Finally, we narrowed our list by considering price, active ingredient concentration, and compatibility with all skin types.

What is Melasma?

  • What you need to know: Melasma is a skin condition that presents as brown patches on light skin or blue-gray patches on dark skin, most often on the upper lip (a.k.a. melasma mustache), forehead, and cheeks, and occasionally on the arms and upper back, explains Dr. Galaria. Ithappens when cells called melanocytes become overactive and begin to produce more melanin (a dark brown skin pigment), and is exacerbated by sun exposure, adds Dr. Shamban. It’s commonly triggered by hormonal changes, which makes pregnant people, those on hormonal birth control, and those undergoing hormonal treatments especially prone, Shamban adds.
  • How to treat melasma: Because melasma is worsened by sun exposure, sunscreen and sun-protective clothing are your best defense against it, says Dr. Shamban. To fade existing spots, you can use a combination of vitamin C, kojic acid, azelaic acid, and/or tranexamic acid-enriched products to brighten, and exfoliants like retinol to increase cell turnover and reveal renewed skin.Dr. Galaria adds that a prescription of oral tranexamic acid is a proven effective treatment in the right patients, and in-office laser treatments are “the fastest way to treat melasma” for everyone.

What to Look for in a Melasma Treatment

  • Recommended use: Use for melasma treatments varies greatly depending on the product and active ingredients. It’s best to follow the label’s instructions as directed, consult your dermatologist if needed, and always use sunscreen daily.
  • Types: The type of melasma treatment that works best for you is the one that's most easily incorporated into your skincare routine. Just be mindful of the concentration of active ingredients. The stronger they are, the faster they’ll work, but at the potential cost of sensitivity. Dr. Galaria also stresses that in-office treatments far overshadow over-the-counter products in effectiveness when it comes to melasma. She adds that SPF is the one over-the-counter product that is truly necessary.

Our Experts

  • Noreen Galaria, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Virginia
  • Ava Shamban, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Los Angeles

Frequently Asked Questions

  • Can retinol remove melasma?

    Yes! Dr. Shamban explains that products with retinol and other forms of retinoids can decrease melanin production and quicken cell turnover. She adds that it works best when used in combination with antioxidants like vitamin C and, of course, sun protection. It’s also worth noting that prescription retinol, tretinoin, is likely more effective than most retinol you can purchase over the counter.

Why Trust Verywell Health

Kayla Blanton is a freelance writer with a bachelor's degree in journalism and a specialization in public health and women, gender, and sexuality studies. She's covered health, nutrition, lifestyle, and beauty at various outlets for five years and has interviewed dozens of dermatologists about skincare and skin health.

Fade Stubborn Dark Spots With These 10 Dermatologist-Approved Melasma Treatments (2024)

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